What's onThis week in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires, from the opera house to the milonga
Buenos Aires stretches along the Río de la Plata: the palaces and parks of Recoleta and Palermo to the north, the colonial cobbles of San Telmo and the painted houses of La Boca to the south, the avenues, cafés and theatres of the centre in between, and the docks of Puerto Madero on the river. Here are its grand hotels and the 2026 MICHELIN stars, its cafés notables and parrillas, its museums, stages and tango salons, and day trips to Tigre, Colonia del Sacramento, San Antonio de Areco, La Plata and Montevideo. Every listing is checked against the venue’s own website or an official source, and anything we can’t confirm is left out.
In depth
The Paris of the south, and much more
The Teatro Colón, the Recoleta Cemetery, the Plaza de Mayo, La Boca and the docks: how to see Buenos Aires, and in what order.
Read the storyArts + Culture
The Teatro Colón, the MALBA and PROA, the theatres of Corrientes and the tango salons where the city dances.
Buenos Aires, barrio by barrio
Seven barrios, each with its own guide: the palaces and marble of Recoleta, the parks and designers of Palermo, the cobbles of San Telmo, the painted houses of La Boca, the docks of Puerto Madero, the opera and avenues of the centre, and the leafy streets of the north.
After dark
Buenos Aires keeps late hours: dinner at ten is ordinary, and the milongas are only warming up at midnight.
Before you go
Entry and health insurance, arriving at Ezeiza or Aeroparque, tickets for the Colón and the tango houses, and three days that work for a first visit.
ItineraryThe Platinum weekendThe Faena, Rojo Tango and Don JulioOur advice
Book the Colón before you fly
A guided visit shows you the horseshoe of red and gold, but a performance shows you the sound. Book the opera, the ballet or the Filarmónica on the theatre’s own site, then build your days around it. The Teatro Colón
Beyond Buenos Aires
The islands of the delta are a train ride north; Colonia and Montevideo lie across the river in Uruguay; the estancias of San Antonio de Areco are out in the pampas, and La Plata is down the coast.
Our advice
Take your passport to Colonia
Colonia del Sacramento and Montevideo are in Uruguay: the ferries leave from Buenos Aires, but there is passport control at the terminal. Stay for the sunset over the river and book the late boat back. Colonia del Sacramento
In depth: the back stories of Buenos Aires
The great sights, the table, tango and opera, the hotels, the Subte and the ferries, and where to buy: the stories behind Buenos Aires.
At the milonga
Nobody walks across the floor to ask for a dance: a glance and a nod across the room, the cabeceo, is how it is done.
Onward with the ULTIMATE guides
Buenos Aires joins Rio in the South American guides: north to the Corcovado, out to sea from the Río de la Plata, and the great journeys beyond.
ULTIMATE City Guides: Europe & beyond
Planning a longer journey? Each city in the network has its own independent guide, written with the same care and checked place by place. Here are the guides that are live, with more on the way.
Europe
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SerbiaULTIMATE BelgradeWhere the Sava meets the Danube: a buzzing capital of art, classical music and famous nightlife, with a new waterfront and the mountains of Zlatibor and Kopaonik.Visit the guide North America
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See all Middle East & North AfricaHOT TOPICS · Have Your Say
From our readers: visitors and porteños on the parrillas and cafés notables, the Colón and the milongas, Sundays in San Telmo and the ferry to Colonia.
This week's pick
The Teatro Colón
The Ballet Estable del Teatro Colón dances Kenneth MacMillan’s Manon from 5 to 15 November, with the Filarmónica de Buenos Aires in the pit: book on teatrocolon.org.ar.
Find out moreEvery list in the guide
- Restaurants38
- Cafés7
- Bars & Tango12
- Hotels13
- Sights18
- Arts & Culture26
- Parks7
- Walks6
- Shopping8
- Health8
- Property5
- Developments5
- Motoring5
- Getting Around8
- Recoleta guideGuide
- Palermo guideGuide
- San Telmo & Monserrat guideGuide
- La Boca guideGuide
- Puerto Madero & Costanera Sur guideGuide
- Retiro & the Centro guideGuide
- Belgrano, Colegiales & Núñez guideGuide
- Tigre & the Delta guideGuide
- Colonia del Sacramento guideGuide
- San Antonio de Areco guideGuide
- La Plata guideGuide
- Montevideo guideGuide
- LUX Living guideGuide
- Buenos Aires property guide guideGuide
- Grand hotels guide guideGuide
Plan your day
ItineraryThe Platinum weekend: Buenos Aires at its most exclusiveTwo daysKnow your neighbourhoods
Our favourites right now
Restaurants
- 1Buenos Aires at the table: fire, stars and the late dinnerBuenos Aires · In depth
- 2AramburuRecoleta · Fine dining
- 3Don JulioPalermo · Restaurant
Cafés
- 1Gran Café TortoniAvenida de Mayo · Historic café
- 2Las VioletasAlmagro · Historic café
- 3La BielaRecoleta · Historic café
Bars & Tango
- 1Florería AtlánticoRetiro · Cocktail bar
- 2Presidente BarRecoleta · Cocktail bar
- 3MiliónRecoleta · Bar and restaurant
Hotels
- 1Where Buenos Aires sleeps: palaces, docks and garden hotelsRecoleta · In depth
- 2Alvear Palace HotelRecoleta · Grand hotel
- 3Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos AiresRecoleta · Grand hotel
Sights
- 1The Paris of the south, and much more: Buenos Aires’ great sightsBuenos Aires · In depth
- 2The Teatro ColónCentro · Opera house
- 3The Plaza de Mayo and the CabildoMonserrat · Historic square
Arts & Culture
- 1Tango, opera and the avant-garde: the arts of Buenos AiresBuenos Aires · In depth
- 2MALBA – Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos AiresPalermo Chico · Art museum
- 3Museo Nacional de Bellas ArtesRecoleta · Art museum
Parks
- 1The Bosques de Palermo and the RosedalPalermo · Park
- 2The Japanese Garden (Jardín Japonés)Palermo · Garden
- 3The Botanical Garden (Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays)Palermo · Botanical garden
Walks
- 1San Telmo on a SundaySan Telmo · Walk
- 2Recoleta: palaces, the cemetery and the parksRecoleta · Walk
- 3The Avenida de Mayo: from the Plaza de Mayo to the CongressAvenida de Mayo · Walk
Shopping
- 1Galerías PacíficoCentro · Shopping gallery
- 2Patio BullrichRecoleta · Shopping centre
- 3Alcorta ShoppingPalermo Chico · Shopping centre
Health
- 1Emergencies: 107 and 911Buenos Aires · Emergency numbers
- 2Hospital AlemánRecoleta · Private hospital
- 3Hospital BritánicoBarracas · Private hospital
Property
- 1Buying in Buenos Aires: palaces, towers and the escribanoBuenos Aires · In depth
- 2Your tax number and the escribanoBuenos Aires · Official step
- 3Toribio AchávalBuenos Aires · Estate agent
Developments
- 1Puerto Madero: the docks rebornPuerto Madero · Regeneration
- 2The Paseo del BajoPuerto Madero · Road and parks
- 3Subte Line FBuenos Aires · Metro line