The back story
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Neighbourhood guide
San Telmo and Monserrat: cobbles, antiques and tango
The colonial streets of San Telmo, the Sunday fair on Defensa, the Mercado, the Museo Moderno and the tango houses of the old quarter.
Neighbourhood guide · Buenos Aires
San Telmo and Monserrat: cobbles, antiques and tango
The Sunday fair on Defensa, the Mercado de San Telmo, the Museo Moderno and the tango houses of the old quarter.
What's onThis week in Buenos Aires
What to see and do
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On Sundays
The Feria de San Telmo and the Calle Defensa
Antiques, crafts and tango on the cobbles of the Calle Defensa and the Plaza Dorrego, every Sunday.
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Iron and glass
The Mercado de San Telmo
The iron-and-glass market hall of San Telmo, with antiques, produce and food stalls.
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On the Avenida San Juan
Museo Moderno
The city’s museum of modern art, on the Avenida San Juan in San Telmo.
Avenida San Juan 350, San Telmo, Buenos AiresExplore View on map
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On foot
San Telmo on a Sunday
From the Plaza de Mayo down the Calle Defensa to the Plaza Dorrego and the Parque Lezama, through the Sunday fair.
Where to eat
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Bib Gourmand
Caseros
Traditional cooking at the southern edge of San Telmo. Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide.
Avenida Caseros 486, C1152AAN Buenos AiresExplore View on map
Bars and tango
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Behind the red door
La Puerta Roja
An upstairs bar in San Telmo behind a red door.
Chacabuco 733, San Telmo, Buenos AiresExplore View on map
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Since 1920
El Querandí
A tango dinner show in the old quarter, telling the story of tango in scenes from each era.
Perú 322, Buenos AiresExplore View on map
Health and wellness
Share your San Telmo & Monserrat tips
Spent a Sunday in San Telmo? Tell other readers which stalls and which corner bar.
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