The Salón Dorado of the Teatro Colón, with gilded columns, painted ceiling and crystal chandeliers

Neighbourhood guide · Buenos Aires

Retiro and the Centro: the opera, the avenues and the cafés

The Teatro Colón, the Plaza de Mayo, the Avenida de Mayo and the Tortoni, the Obelisco and the Plaza San Martín.

The back story

  1. Neighbourhood guide

    Retiro and the Centro: the opera, the avenues and the cafés

    Centro·In depth

    The Teatro Colón, the Plaza de Mayo, the Avenida de Mayo and its cafés, the Obelisco and the theatres of Corrientes, and the Plaza San Martín in Retiro.

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What to see and do

  1. Opera, ballet and tours

    The Teatro Colón

    Centro·Opera house

    One of the great opera houses of the world: a horseshoe of red and gold, with its own ballet, orchestra and chorus. Tours and performances.

    Explore View on map

  2. Where the city began

    The Plaza de Mayo and the Cabildo

    Monserrat·Historic square

    The founding square of Buenos Aires, with the Cabildo, the cathedral and the pink Casa Rosada.

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  3. The pink house

    The Casa Rosada

    Monserrat·Historic building

    The pink seat of government on the Plaza de Mayo, with guided visits.

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  4. On the Plaza de Mayo

    The Catedral Metropolitana

    Monserrat·Cathedral

    The cathedral of Buenos Aires on the Plaza de Mayo, behind its neoclassical portico.

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  5. A lighthouse on the Avenida

    Palacio Barolo

    Avenida de Mayo·Historic building

    The office tower on the Avenida de Mayo built on the plan of Dante’s Divine Comedy, with a lighthouse at the top. Guided visits.

    Avenida de Mayo 1370, C1085ABQ Buenos AiresExplore View on map

  6. The heart of the city

    The Obelisco and the Avenida 9 de Julio

    Centro·Monument

    The white obelisk at the crossing of Corrientes and the vast Avenida 9 de Julio.

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  7. Concert halls in a palace

    Palacio Libertad

    Centro·Cultural centre

    The former central post office on Leandro N. Alem, now a national cultural centre with concert halls, among them the Auditorio Nacional.

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  8. On the Avenida Corrientes

    Complejo Teatral de Buenos Aires: the Teatro San Martín

    Centro·Theatre

    The city’s theatre company, with the Teatro San Martín on the Avenida Corrientes and its cinema, the Sala Lugones.

    Avenida Corrientes 1530, Buenos AiresExplore View on map

  9. The national theatre

    Teatro Nacional Cervantes

    Centro·Theatre

    The national theatre, in its Spanish Renaissance building on Libertad.

    Libertad 815, C1012AAQ Buenos AiresExplore View on map

  10. Argentine cinema

    Cine Gaumont

    Congreso·Cinema

    The city-centre cinema devoted to Argentine films.

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  11. Shade and palaces

    Plaza San Martín

    Retiro·Square

    The sloping square of Retiro under great old trees, framed by palaces and the Kavanagh building.

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  12. On foot

    The Avenida de Mayo: from the Plaza de Mayo to the Congress

    Avenida de Mayo·Walk

    The city’s grand avenue of cafés and theatres, from the Cabildo to the Congress.

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Where to eat

  1. Bib Gourmand

    Chuchú

    Retiro·Restaurant

    Argentinian cooking in Retiro. Bib Gourmand in the 2026 guide.

    Avenida del Libertador 405, C1001ABE Buenos AiresExplore View on map

  2. Since 1934

    El Cuartito

    Centro·Pizzería

    The pizzería on Talcahuano, opened in 1934 in a tiny triangular room.

    Talcahuano 937, Buenos AiresExplore View on map

  3. Since 1858

    Gran Café Tortoni

    Avenida de Mayo·Historic café

    The oldest café in Buenos Aires, in its own words: a French-style room of stained glass, wood and marble on the Avenida de Mayo, open since 1858.

    Avenida de Mayo 825, C1084 Buenos AiresExplore View on map

Bars and tango

  1. Behind a flower shop

    Florería Atlántico

    Retiro·Cocktail bar

    A cocktail bar in a basement reached through a flower shop in Retiro.

    Arroyo 872, Buenos AiresExplore View on map

  2. A bar notable

    Bar Los Galgos

    Congreso·Bar notable

    One of the city’s bares notables, near the Congress.

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  3. By the Obelisco

    Tango Porteño

    Centro·Tango show

    A tango show and dinner a few steps from the Obelisco, recreating the golden age of the 1940s.

    Cerrito 570, Buenos AiresExplore View on map

  4. A tango salon

    El Beso

    Balvanera·Milonga

    The tango salon on Riobamba, with milongas and classes every day of the year.

    Riobamba 416, Buenos AiresExplore View on map

Shopping

  1. Under painted domes

    Galerías Pacífico

    Centro·Shopping gallery

    The shopping galleries on Calle Florida, under a central dome painted with murals.

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  2. Since 1939

    Casa López

    Retiro·Leather goods

    Argentine leather since 1939: bags, jackets, gloves and travel goods.

    Marcelo T. de Alvear 640, Buenos AiresExplore View on map

Share your Retiro & the Centro tips

Been to the Colón or the Tortoni? Tell the next visitor how to plan the centre.

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