Buenos Aires essentials

Entry to Argentina

Entry rules depend on your passport: check the Argentine foreign ministry (cancilleria.gob.ar) and Migraciones (argentina.gob.ar/interior/migraciones) before you travel. Travel with health insurance that covers your whole stay, and keep the details to hand.

From the airports

Ezeiza – Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE) is south-west of the city; Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP), for domestic and regional flights, is on the river by Palermo. Aeropuertos Argentina (aeropuertosargentina.com) lists taxis, transfers and car hire; Tienda León runs transfers to the city (tiendaleon.com).

Subte, trains and taxis

The Subte runs Lines A to E and H (emova.com.ar). The SUBE card pays for the Subte, buses and suburban trains (argentina.gob.ar/sube). Licensed taxis are black and yellow.

Money

The currency is the Argentine peso ($). Prices change often; cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops, but carry some cash for small purchases and tips. Ask your bank about the exchange rate it will apply to card payments.

The seasons

Buenos Aires is in the southern hemisphere: December to February is summer, hot and humid; June to August is the cool winter. Spring (September to November) brings the jacarandas into flower and the polo season to its climax at Palermo.

Customs and etiquette

Dinner is late: few porteños sit down before nine, and ten is normal. A kiss on the cheek is the usual greeting among friends. Dress respectfully in churches and cemeteries. At a milonga, the cabeceo, a glance and a nod across the room, is how a dance is asked for.

Safety and emergencies

Use common sense, as in any big city: keep phones and valuables out of sight in crowds and on the Subte, use licensed taxis or booked cars at night, and visit La Boca by day. Call 107 for the SAME ambulance and 911 for the police (buenosaires.gob.ar).

Questions and answers